Ingraham Expedition: March 18, Friday

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Ingraham Expedition: March 18, Friday

Original Source

Encoded texts are derived from three typescript accounts of the 1892 Everglades Exploration Expedition found in the James E. Ingraham Papers and the Chase Collection in the Special and Area Studies Collections Department of the University of Florida George A. Smathers Libraries. Digital reproductions of the typescripts are available at:

Moses, W.R., Record of the Everglade Exploration Expedition

Ingraham, J.E., Diary

Church, A., A Dash Through the Everglades

Contents

Electronic Publication Details:

Text encoding by John R. Nemmers

Published by John R. Nemmers.

George A. Smathers Libraries, University of Florida, Gainesville, Florida

2015

Licensed for use under the Creative Commons Attribution-Noncommercial 3.0 Unported License.

These manuscripts are available from this site for education purposes only.

Encoding Principles

The three accounts of the 1892 Ingraham Everglades Exploration Expedition have been transcribed and are represented in Text Encoding Initiative (TEI) P5 XML encoding.

Line and page breaks have not been preserved in the encoded manuscripts.

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CAMP NO. 3. Friday March 18th.

Broke Camp (No. 3) at 6:20 A.M.

The country for the first four miles was through scrub pine and sapling cypress afterwards opening out into a magnificent open prairie dotted with clumps of cypress, oak and cabbage palms well watered with flowing water.

At 11 A.M. crossed the old government causeway, constructed about 1835 across the Okaloacoochee Slough and Big Cypress Swamp. At this point a perceptible flow south was noticed in the stream of water comprising a portion of the slough. After crossing this slough a heavy rain storm came up from the west the temperature fell 20 degrees by sunset, following the severe shower, the wind veering from the south to the north west.

The prairie which we entered upon after crossing the slough above noted, extends eastward about 40 miles and is from 5 to 25 miles wide. It is said to be the finest cattle range in the state. We saw a number of cattle, apparently in fine order. The cattle are very wild and it was rare that we could approach nearer than half a mile. A number of different companies have fenced off large pastures, running a fence line from a point on the Big Cypress to the Everglades, a distance of 27 miles. The fence was barbed wire.

Went into Camp No. 4 at 5 P.M., having marched 20 miles, a great part of it in water from 5 to 8 inches deep. During the march at various points, a rock strata appeared at the surface, which is said to be of the same formation as that underlying the Everglades. Where this rock exists the soil appears very poor, being sparsely covered with vegetation. At various points on this stock range the grass is high and thick, said to be very nutritious and affording very wholesome feed for cattle.

Magnificent bodies of cypress timber extending southward along the line of what is known as The Big Cypress, being virgin timber.

We have seen no indians up to this time, though we passed several of their abandoned camps.

The temperature continues to fall very rapidly accompanied by severe north west gale.

The whole gang very tired, foot-sore and weary and full rations of mutton tallow and bandages were served out.

The country appears to have been cleaned up as far as game is concerned and it is not surprising that the indians should have apparently deserted a country so devoid of wild game.

After going into camp at noon following the severe rain to get coffee and dinner, many of the men being drenched to the skin some removed their outer clothing permitting their caudal appendages to hang on their persons in such a way as to permit of the greatest circulation of air. It was at this time that the Secretary of the party, who was squatting under a palmetto on the leeward side of the fire used for cooking calmly remarked that the tents or something made of cotton is burning. He continued squatting until happening to get a stronger whiff than usual of the burning material, he placed his hands behind him to see if his shirt was getting dry when he found it afire, a large portion having been consumed. His equanimity was for a few moments somewhat upset but under the shouts of the balance of the party and their unrestrained merriment accompanied by various bits of advice and suggestions he soon recovered and helped to consume a good meal shortly afterwards served.
March 18th. Broke camp 6:40 A.M. Marched 20 miles through open prairie, - pine islands, - hammock clumps and cypress heads. Big Cypress on the south; - Okaloacoochee Swamp on north; - prairie open; - good grass and water. Crossed Okaloacooche Slough on old Government causeway 11 A.M.

Heavy storm broke over us here, drenching all; stopped at Shirt Tail Camp for dinner. Moses burned his shirt here while drying it on his person. Mercury fell from 76 at noon to 40 at 7 P.M. Went into Camp #4 at a point 10 miles N.W. of Ft. Shackleford. Wading in 8 inches to a foot of water all day. Prairie here begins to show strata of rock on surface. Grazing very fine; cattle look extremely well, though weather during the winter has been cold. All suffered terribly from cold and chafes and blistered feet.
Next morning, Friday, my blisters were no better, and I felt that another day's walking in my socks would make the soles of my feet sore too. In this extremity I determined to cut out the back of my shoe just above the heel, where the worst blisters were, and try to walk that way. Much to my gratification this succeeded admirably and from that time I walked constantly. Our march now was on the great South Florida prairie and although we did not see any large herds of cattle we were assured that this range afforded grass for thousands of them.

About ten o'clock a heavy shower fell, and as soon as it held up we went into camp to get warm and dry off. We stopped under a clump of large oak trees which had from the signs we found evidently been an old Indian camp. Loosening our cattle to graze and taking out our shirts we all backed up to the fire to warm and dry ourselves. While engaged in this pleasant occupation Moses, one of our group, sniffed the air and called out; "I smell something burning! See if a cinder hasn't fallen on something in the wagon!" We all endeavored to assuage his fears, but at this moment a sense of unusual warmth in the region of his shirt tail assured him that his worst fears were realized, and caused him to exclaim in horror, "My God, boys, its me!", and to seek in haste the cooling aid of a neighboring pond. At "Shirt Tail Camp," as we dubbed it, we noticed a wild, shaggy pony that had been following us all day and which the Hendrys said belonged to Billy Conepache, a Seminole chief.

That day we passed deserted old Indian camps, and about three o'clock in the afternoon came to wire fence, which Hendry told us was twenty-eight miles long. He said that the land did not belong to the man who fenced it in, but that custom allowed him to fence off for his own use as much land as he needed to graze his cattle on. The grass on this range seemed to be finer and tenderer than the ordinary wire grass of the pine lands and, our guides assured us, made a fine pasture. We camped that night in a clump of pines where we could get plenty of wood, but that night it was so cold we could not keep warm. Many of our men, unaccustomed to walking, were terribly fatigued so that every movement caused them pain; that night I was awakened by the melancholy sounds of "Oh, Lord! Oh, God!" repeated in the most supplicating tones. Supposing someone was sick or injured I started ready to give the alarm, when I discovered it was our President, trying to lay his blistered and aching limbs in a more comfortable position.
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CAMP NO. 3. Friday March 18th.

Broke Camp (No. 3) at 6:20 A.M.

The country for the first four miles was through scrub pine and sapling cypress afterwards opening out into a magnificent open prairie dotted with clumps of cypress, oak and cabbage palms well watered with flowing water.

At 11 A.M. crossed the old government causeway, constructed about 1835 across the Okaloacoochee Slough and Big Cypress Swamp. At this point a perceptible flow south was noticed in the stream of water comprising a portion of the slough. After crossing this slough a heavy rain storm came up from the west the temperature fell 20 degrees by sunset, following the severe shower, the wind veering from the south to the north west.

The prairie which we entered upon after crossing the slough above noted, extends eastward about 40 miles and is from 5 to 25 miles wide. It is said to be the finest cattle range in the state. We saw a number of cattle, apparently in fine order. The cattle are very wild and it was rare that we could approach nearer than half a mile. A number of different companies have fenced off large pastures, running a fence line from a point on the Big Cypress to the Everglades, a distance of 27 miles. The fence was barbed wire.

Went into Camp No. 4 at 5 P.M., having marched 20 miles, a great part of it in water from 5 to 8 inches deep. During the march at various points, a rock strata appeared at the surface, which is said to be of the same formation as that underlying the Everglades. Where this rock exists the soil appears very poor, being sparsely covered with vegetation. At various points on this stock range the grass is high and thick, said to be very nutritious and affording very wholesome feed for cattle.

Magnificent bodies of cypress timber extending southward along the line of what is known as The Big Cypress, being virgin timber.

We have seen no indians up to this time, though we passed several of their abandoned camps.

The temperature continues to fall very rapidly accompanied by severe north west gale.

The whole gang very tired, foot-sore and weary and full rations of mutton tallow and bandages were served out.

The country appears to have been cleaned up as far as game is concerned and it is not surprising that the indians should have apparently deserted a country so devoid of wild game.

After going into camp at noon following the severe rain to get coffee and dinner, many of the men being drenched to the skin some removed their outer clothing permitting their caudal appendages to hang on their persons in such a way as to permit of the greatest circulation of air. It was at this time that the Secretary of the party, who was squatting under a palmetto on the leeward side of the fire used for cooking calmly remarked that the tents or something made of cotton is burning. He continued squatting until happening to get a stronger whiff than usual of the burning material, he placed his hands behind him to see if his shirt was getting dry when he found it afire, a large portion having been consumed. His equanimity was for a few moments somewhat upset but under the shouts of the balance of the party and their unrestrained merriment accompanied by various bits of advice and suggestions he soon recovered and helped to consume a good meal shortly afterwards served.
March 18th. Broke camp 6:40 A.M. Marched 20 miles through open prairie, - pine islands, - hammock clumps and cypress heads. Big Cypress on the south; - Okaloacoochee Swamp on north; - prairie open; - good grass and water. Crossed Okaloacooche Slough on old Government causeway 11 A.M.

Heavy storm broke over us here, drenching all; stopped at Shirt Tail Camp for dinner. Moses burned his shirt here while drying it on his person. Mercury fell from 76 at noon to 40 at 7 P.M. Went into Camp #4 at a point 10 miles N.W. of Ft. Shackleford. Wading in 8 inches to a foot of water all day. Prairie here begins to show strata of rock on surface. Grazing very fine; cattle look extremely well, though weather during the winter has been cold. All suffered terribly from cold and chafes and blistered feet.
Next morning, Friday, my blisters were no better, and I felt that another day's walking in my socks would make the soles of my feet sore too. In this extremity I determined to cut out the back of my shoe just above the heel, where the worst blisters were, and try to walk that way. Much to my gratification this succeeded admirably and from that time I walked constantly. Our march now was on the great South Florida prairie and although we did not see any large herds of cattle we were assured that this range afforded grass for thousands of them.

About ten o'clock a heavy shower fell, and as soon as it held up we went into camp to get warm and dry off. We stopped under a clump of large oak trees which had from the signs we found evidently been an old Indian camp. Loosening our cattle to graze and taking out our shirts we all backed up to the fire to warm and dry ourselves. While engaged in this pleasant occupation Moses, one of our group, sniffed the air and called out; "I smell something burning! See if a cinder hasn't fallen on something in the wagon!" We all endeavored to assuage his fears, but at this moment a sense of unusual warmth in the region of his shirt tail assured him that his worst fears were realized, and caused him to exclaim in horror, "My God, boys, its me!", and to seek in haste the cooling aid of a neighboring pond. At "Shirt Tail Camp," as we dubbed it, we noticed a wild, shaggy pony that had been following us all day and which the Hendrys said belonged to Billy Conepache, a Seminole chief.

That day we passed deserted old Indian camps, and about three o'clock in the afternoon came to wire fence, which Hendry told us was twenty-eight miles long. He said that the land did not belong to the man who fenced it in, but that custom allowed him to fence off for his own use as much land as he needed to graze his cattle on. The grass on this range seemed to be finer and tenderer than the ordinary wire grass of the pine lands and, our guides assured us, made a fine pasture. We camped that night in a clump of pines where we could get plenty of wood, but that night it was so cold we could not keep warm. Many of our men, unaccustomed to walking, were terribly fatigued so that every movement caused them pain; that night I was awakened by the melancholy sounds of "Oh, Lord! Oh, God!" repeated in the most supplicating tones. Supposing someone was sick or injured I started ready to give the alarm, when I discovered it was our President, trying to lay his blistered and aching limbs in a more comfortable position.
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CAMP NO. 3. Friday March 18th.

Broke Camp (No. 3) at 6:20 A.M.

The country for the first four miles was through scrub pine and sapling cypress afterwards opening out into a magnificent open prairie dotted with clumps of cypress, oak and cabbage palms well watered with flowing water.

At 11 A.M. crossed the old government causeway, constructed about 1835 across the Okaloacoochee Slough and Big Cypress Swamp. At this point a perceptible flow south was noticed in the stream of water comprising a portion of the slough. After crossing this slough a heavy rain storm came up from the west the temperature fell 20 degrees by sunset, following the severe shower, the wind veering from the south to the north west.

The prairie which we entered upon after crossing the slough above noted, extends eastward about 40 miles and is from 5 to 25 miles wide. It is said to be the finest cattle range in the state. We saw a number of cattle, apparently in fine order. The cattle are very wild and it was rare that we could approach nearer than half a mile. A number of different companies have fenced off large pastures, running a fence line from a point on the Big Cypress to the Everglades, a distance of 27 miles. The fence was barbed wire.

Went into Camp No. 4 at 5 P.M., having marched 20 miles, a great part of it in water from 5 to 8 inches deep. During the march at various points, a rock strata appeared at the surface, which is said to be of the same formation as that underlying the Everglades. Where this rock exists the soil appears very poor, being sparsely covered with vegetation. At various points on this stock range the grass is high and thick, said to be very nutritious and affording very wholesome feed for cattle.

Magnificent bodies of cypress timber extending southward along the line of what is known as The Big Cypress, being virgin timber.

We have seen no indians up to this time, though we passed several of their abandoned camps.

The temperature continues to fall very rapidly accompanied by severe north west gale.

The whole gang very tired, foot-sore and weary and full rations of mutton tallow and bandages were served out.

The country appears to have been cleaned up as far as game is concerned and it is not surprising that the indians should have apparently deserted a country so devoid of wild game.

After going into camp at noon following the severe rain to get coffee and dinner, many of the men being drenched to the skin some removed their outer clothing permitting their caudal appendages to hang on their persons in such a way as to permit of the greatest circulation of air. It was at this time that the Secretary of the party, who was squatting under a palmetto on the leeward side of the fire used for cooking calmly remarked that the tents or something made of cotton is burning. He continued squatting until happening to get a stronger whiff than usual of the burning material, he placed his hands behind him to see if his shirt was getting dry when he found it afire, a large portion having been consumed. His equanimity was for a few moments somewhat upset but under the shouts of the balance of the party and their unrestrained merriment accompanied by various bits of advice and suggestions he soon recovered and helped to consume a good meal shortly afterwards served.
March 18th. Broke camp 6:40 A.M. Marched 20 miles through open prairie, - pine islands, - hammock clumps and cypress heads. Big Cypress on the south; - Okaloacoochee Swamp on north; - prairie open; - good grass and water. Crossed Okaloacooche Slough on old Government causeway 11 A.M.

Heavy storm broke over us here, drenching all; stopped at Shirt Tail Camp for dinner. Moses burned his shirt here while drying it on his person. Mercury fell from 76 at noon to 40 at 7 P.M. Went into Camp #4 at a point 10 miles N.W. of Ft. Shackleford. Wading in 8 inches to a foot of water all day. Prairie here begins to show strata of rock on surface. Grazing very fine; cattle look extremely well, though weather during the winter has been cold. All suffered terribly from cold and chafes and blistered feet.
Next morning, Friday, my blisters were no better, and I felt that another day's walking in my socks would make the soles of my feet sore too. In this extremity I determined to cut out the back of my shoe just above the heel, where the worst blisters were, and try to walk that way. Much to my gratification this succeeded admirably and from that time I walked constantly. Our march now was on the great South Florida prairie and although we did not see any large herds of cattle we were assured that this range afforded grass for thousands of them.

About ten o'clock a heavy shower fell, and as soon as it held up we went into camp to get warm and dry off. We stopped under a clump of large oak trees which had from the signs we found evidently been an old Indian camp. Loosening our cattle to graze and taking out our shirts we all backed up to the fire to warm and dry ourselves. While engaged in this pleasant occupation Moses, one of our group, sniffed the air and called out; "I smell something burning! See if a cinder hasn't fallen on something in the wagon!" We all endeavored to assuage his fears, but at this moment a sense of unusual warmth in the region of his shirt tail assured him that his worst fears were realized, and caused him to exclaim in horror, "My God, boys, its me!", and to seek in haste the cooling aid of a neighboring pond. At "Shirt Tail Camp," as we dubbed it, we noticed a wild, shaggy pony that had been following us all day and which the Hendrys said belonged to Billy Conepache, a Seminole chief.

That day we passed deserted old Indian camps, and about three o'clock in the afternoon came to wire fence, which Hendry told us was twenty-eight miles long. He said that the land did not belong to the man who fenced it in, but that custom allowed him to fence off for his own use as much land as he needed to graze his cattle on. The grass on this range seemed to be finer and tenderer than the ordinary wire grass of the pine lands and, our guides assured us, made a fine pasture. We camped that night in a clump of pines where we could get plenty of wood, but that night it was so cold we could not keep warm. Many of our men, unaccustomed to walking, were terribly fatigued so that every movement caused them pain; that night I was awakened by the melancholy sounds of "Oh, Lord! Oh, God!" repeated in the most supplicating tones. Supposing someone was sick or injured I started ready to give the alarm, when I discovered it was our President, trying to lay his blistered and aching limbs in a more comfortable position.